3RD Generation Dodge Ram Cab removal procedure.
The following procedure is not listed in the most optimized order. We noted this process during the removal and compiled these steps after finishing the job. Please also understand that various years, cab configurations, engines, chassis, and trim levels may have different steps required for cab removal. We ask that you use caution and common sense before moving forward, and proceed at your own risk. All fluid systems (including Freon) will be opened during this procedure and now is a good time to make sure they're all drained before moving to the steps below.
1. Remove Cab bolts. For our Quad cab, there were 4 bolts down each side of the cab, the forward most bolts being at the core support behind the bumper. All 8 bolts were removed from underneath the truck, and are 21mm.
2. Disconnect T-Case linkage (if applicable), the manual Tcases use a ball and socket style bushing and bar. They can be pried apart with a screw driver or trim tool.
3. Remove the parking brake cable. We prefer to do this where the intermidiate cable meets the cab cable, under the driver door. We suggest pulling slack from the rear axle and using visegrips to hold that slack out while attempting to separate the cables. Occasionally, we have to drill out the small cable-end stopper on the cable coupler so that the cable in can be removed from the coupler successfully.
4.Unbolt the Slave Cyl from the transmission (if applicable). There should be 2 13mm Nuts holding the Slave to the transmission. Once removed, make sure nothing in prevent the slave and slave line from lifting freely with the cab. ***If you have an automatic transmission, replace this step with removing the transmission shifter cable, and ensure that it is also no longer attached to the transmission or any frame related components that would prevent it from lifting freely with the cab.
5.Remove the air filter box (upper and lower), and the intake pipe.
6. Remove both battery Grounds, and unbolts the small ground straps from the inner fenders. (These ground straps both come straight off the ground terminals to the inner fenders. If you're confused about their location, just follow the small wire off each ground terminal to where its bolt. They should both be fastened with 10mm bolts)
7. Remove the Crossover battery cable from the Drivers side terminal (The Crossover cable is the cable that links both batteries together, it runs from the drivers side battery, across the core support to the passenger side. It will be staying on the cab)
8. Remove the grid heater 12v+ wire from the solenoid (The large feed wire, not the trigger wire).
9. Remove the Alternator "hot" wire from the alternator and the input power wire from the TIPM. The TIPM hot wire is the large wire mounted to a stud on the front side of the TIPM.
10. Remove both powersteering cooler lines. Both lines can easily be removed from under the vehicle on the drivers side by the cooling pack.
**Be sure to remove the steering shaft while you're here, its just above the cooler lines, and typically points down while the wheels are straight.
11. Remove the CYL1 injector hardline, and the intake horn. We loosened the cold side pipe clamp, removed the oil dipstick both, and harness retainer bolt (on the backside of the intake horn), then the 6 bolts mounting it to the intake shelf. We left the cold side pipe in the engine bay.
12.Remove all hydroboost lines from the hydroboost. There will be 2 short sections of hardline coming from the hydroboost to just above the master cylinder. These threaded fittings were the easiest for us to remove, no need to remove the lines directly from the hydroboost as long as they're removed here. You will also have to remove the return line (rubber hose) from the hydroboost. It should be clamped onto a barb on the upper drivers side of the hydroboost.
13. Disconnect the large engine harness connector located just above the fuel rail, mounted to the cowl/firewall. There will be a small secondary connector with it, it will need to be disconnected as well.
14. Disconnect the Chassis harness. There will be 2 large plugs located behind the Driver's side front fender liner. No need to remove the fender liner, just look up behind it from under the truck behind the driver front wheel well.
15.Remove the upper radiator hose and both heater hoses ( I suggest removing both hoses from the engine side, its much easier).
16. Remove the Upper AC line on the condenser, it runs down to the compressor and will stay with the frame. Be sure to tuck it somewhere on the engine so it doesn't get caught on anything during the cab removal.
17. Remove the line leading to the AC Accumulator, this line also goes to the compressor, and will be staying with the frame.
18. Remove the lower Radiator Hose from the engine. You can let it go up with the cab, or remove it completely.
19. Disconnect both ABS sensors, located behind the fender liner. If you're having trouble finding it, just follow the wires coming off the hub.
20. Remove the 3 brake lines at the bulk head located on the driver side frame rail. If you're having trouble finding them, look behind the driver's front wheel, they're located directly below the master cylinder.
21.Remove the shifter arm/lever (for manuals). The shifter itself doesn't have to be removed from the trans, just pull up the boot and remove the 2 13mms connecting it to the shifter.
22. Remove the ground located on the back of the head. We left this here because its very easy to do with the cab a couple of feet off the frame. If you'd rather not risk it, you can remove the chassis side of the ground from underneath the truck, located on the driver's side of the trans tunnel.
Here is where we need your common sense. Do a full check of the truck, removing/disconnecting aftermarket items like reverse camera, transfer tanks, aftermarket lighting, etc. Draw an invisible line between the cab and frame, and make sure all items that are going with the cab, stay on that side of the line, and vice versa. Make sure that if you're working with an automatic that all trans cooler lines have been removed or disconnected.
At this time you're ready to begin lifting the cab, we suggest positioning each lift arm at the furtherst front and rear corners of the cab's pinch weld (located below the rocker panel), however each cab is different based on accessories and configuration.
After the cab-off work is completed, reinstall the cab using the steps previously listed in reverse order.
1. Remove Cab bolts. For our Quad cab, there were 4 bolts down each side of the cab, the forward most bolts being at the core support behind the bumper. All 8 bolts were removed from underneath the truck, and are 21mm.
2. Disconnect T-Case linkage (if applicable), the manual Tcases use a ball and socket style bushing and bar. They can be pried apart with a screw driver or trim tool.
3. Remove the parking brake cable. We prefer to do this where the intermidiate cable meets the cab cable, under the driver door. We suggest pulling slack from the rear axle and using visegrips to hold that slack out while attempting to separate the cables. Occasionally, we have to drill out the small cable-end stopper on the cable coupler so that the cable in can be removed from the coupler successfully.
4.Unbolt the Slave Cyl from the transmission (if applicable). There should be 2 13mm Nuts holding the Slave to the transmission. Once removed, make sure nothing in prevent the slave and slave line from lifting freely with the cab. ***If you have an automatic transmission, replace this step with removing the transmission shifter cable, and ensure that it is also no longer attached to the transmission or any frame related components that would prevent it from lifting freely with the cab.
5.Remove the air filter box (upper and lower), and the intake pipe.
6. Remove both battery Grounds, and unbolts the small ground straps from the inner fenders. (These ground straps both come straight off the ground terminals to the inner fenders. If you're confused about their location, just follow the small wire off each ground terminal to where its bolt. They should both be fastened with 10mm bolts)
7. Remove the Crossover battery cable from the Drivers side terminal (The Crossover cable is the cable that links both batteries together, it runs from the drivers side battery, across the core support to the passenger side. It will be staying on the cab)
8. Remove the grid heater 12v+ wire from the solenoid (The large feed wire, not the trigger wire).
9. Remove the Alternator "hot" wire from the alternator and the input power wire from the TIPM. The TIPM hot wire is the large wire mounted to a stud on the front side of the TIPM.
10. Remove both powersteering cooler lines. Both lines can easily be removed from under the vehicle on the drivers side by the cooling pack.
**Be sure to remove the steering shaft while you're here, its just above the cooler lines, and typically points down while the wheels are straight.
11. Remove the CYL1 injector hardline, and the intake horn. We loosened the cold side pipe clamp, removed the oil dipstick both, and harness retainer bolt (on the backside of the intake horn), then the 6 bolts mounting it to the intake shelf. We left the cold side pipe in the engine bay.
12.Remove all hydroboost lines from the hydroboost. There will be 2 short sections of hardline coming from the hydroboost to just above the master cylinder. These threaded fittings were the easiest for us to remove, no need to remove the lines directly from the hydroboost as long as they're removed here. You will also have to remove the return line (rubber hose) from the hydroboost. It should be clamped onto a barb on the upper drivers side of the hydroboost.
13. Disconnect the large engine harness connector located just above the fuel rail, mounted to the cowl/firewall. There will be a small secondary connector with it, it will need to be disconnected as well.
14. Disconnect the Chassis harness. There will be 2 large plugs located behind the Driver's side front fender liner. No need to remove the fender liner, just look up behind it from under the truck behind the driver front wheel well.
15.Remove the upper radiator hose and both heater hoses ( I suggest removing both hoses from the engine side, its much easier).
16. Remove the Upper AC line on the condenser, it runs down to the compressor and will stay with the frame. Be sure to tuck it somewhere on the engine so it doesn't get caught on anything during the cab removal.
17. Remove the line leading to the AC Accumulator, this line also goes to the compressor, and will be staying with the frame.
18. Remove the lower Radiator Hose from the engine. You can let it go up with the cab, or remove it completely.
19. Disconnect both ABS sensors, located behind the fender liner. If you're having trouble finding it, just follow the wires coming off the hub.
20. Remove the 3 brake lines at the bulk head located on the driver side frame rail. If you're having trouble finding them, look behind the driver's front wheel, they're located directly below the master cylinder.
21.Remove the shifter arm/lever (for manuals). The shifter itself doesn't have to be removed from the trans, just pull up the boot and remove the 2 13mms connecting it to the shifter.
22. Remove the ground located on the back of the head. We left this here because its very easy to do with the cab a couple of feet off the frame. If you'd rather not risk it, you can remove the chassis side of the ground from underneath the truck, located on the driver's side of the trans tunnel.
Here is where we need your common sense. Do a full check of the truck, removing/disconnecting aftermarket items like reverse camera, transfer tanks, aftermarket lighting, etc. Draw an invisible line between the cab and frame, and make sure all items that are going with the cab, stay on that side of the line, and vice versa. Make sure that if you're working with an automatic that all trans cooler lines have been removed or disconnected.
At this time you're ready to begin lifting the cab, we suggest positioning each lift arm at the furtherst front and rear corners of the cab's pinch weld (located below the rocker panel), however each cab is different based on accessories and configuration.
After the cab-off work is completed, reinstall the cab using the steps previously listed in reverse order.