
6.4 Powerstroke Cab Removal
Precautions and Liability Statements: Please understand that although we have written this procedure with the best of our knowledge, that various years, cab configurations, chassis, engine configuartions, aftermarket equipment, and much more MAY change the most efficient and safe way to remove your cab. Please also understand that any work moving forward is at your own risk, and failure to properly utilize your tools and equipment may lead to bodily and/or property injury/damage.Â
Interior
1. For all cab removals, begin by draining all fluids related to the cab separation. This includes but may not be limited to Freon, Coolant, Brake fluid, and ATF.Â
2. For manual transmission and transfercase trucks, remove the to do this before the truck is rolled into the 2-post lift area, so you're not working with limited door space.Â
Under the truck
3. With those removed, we will begin by removing the needed items underneath the truck first. We do this so we're not working around any drainpans and/or fluid spills from removing items further along in our procedure. If possible, it is best to hoist the vehicle up for these next few steps.Â
4. If your truck is an Automatic, start by removing the transmission shifter cable. Using a small trim tool, pry the end of the cable off of the shifter linkage. This is a "ball and socket" joint, and does not have any sort of lock on it. Remove the 2 13mm bolts that hold the transmission cable bracket to the side of the transmission.Â
5. Remove the parking brake cable at the coupler located under the driver's door. It can be difficult to break the cable ends free from the coupler, but heat and penetrating oil will aid in this. Once the cable is separated, release the lock holding the cable where it passes through the forward-most body mount and feed the cable through the body mount. Ensure nothing else is attaching the parking brake cable to the frame.Â
6. Remove the ground strap located under the passender side door. It will be attached to the cab with an 8mm, and the frame with a 13mm. Â You can remove this at either end, whatever is easier for you.Â
7. Disconnect the lower radiator hose at the coupler located below the fan shroud. Keep in mind, that although the coolant has been drained, a decent amount of coolant will be stored in the lower hose.Â
8. We will finish out work under the truck by removing the cab bolts. Depending on cab configuartion, there will be 6 or 8 bolts total, 3 or 4 down each side. ***NOTE*** The encapsulated nuts that the bolts interface to are known to spin when attempting to loosen the cab bolts. Applying heat to the bolt, and pressure to the cab with a floor jack, will prevent this.
Passenger Engine Bay
9. Remove the airbox, and air intake tube. The air box is not bolted into the truck, it is held with small studs and rubber grommets. Apply consistent lifting pressure to the box while wiggling it back and forth, and the airbox will break free from those grommets.Â
10. Remove the right side PCM plug, and the sub-harness connect that runs below it. Once unplugged, lay these harnesses over the engine. They will stay with the engine once the cab is lifted.Â
11. Remove the ground wire mounted to the passenger inner fender (fastened with a 8mm), and disconnect the starter-trigger plug. The starter plug is a small, round, single wire plug located directly below this ground. Squeeze the ears on the plug, and pull it apart.Â
12. On the passenger side firewall, there are 3 ground mounted with 8mm bolts, remove the upper-left ground, and feed the wire out from behind the harnesses, and lay this ground over the engine. Remove the left-hand heater hose. To confirm, the other heater hose routes along the firewall to the driver's side, it does NOT need to be removed.
13. Disconnect all battery terminals from the truck. On the passenger side, the ground will need to be released from any push-pins/isolators securing it to other harnesses, and laid over the engine. The positive terminal will have 3 wires fastened to it with 10mm nuts. These wires will need to be unbolted from the terminals, and all push-pins/isolators securing it to the battery tray or other harnesses disconnected. The cross over wire can stay in place, but the alternator hot, and will need to be sorted so that they do not interfere with the cab removal process
14. The battery tray has several items attached to it, including an AC line. Ensure that all harnesses are disconnected and positioned properly as to not interfere with cab removal.Â
15. After reconfirming that all Freon has been evacuated from the system, its time to disconnect our AC lines. Disconnect your Compressor-> Condenser at the coupler located at the battery tray. It is held with a 13mm nut. Once disconnected, position the line that runs down to the compressor over the engine, ensuring it won't interfere with the cab removal process.Â
The other AC line that needs to be removed is from the Compressor to Accumulator. It is the same-style coupler as the previous, and is located under the PCM near the firewall. The line going down to the compressor will need to be laid over the engine as well.Â
16. 4WD Trucks only: Remove the vacuum line located near the previously mentioned AC line, and position it aside.Â
17. Remove the Cold-side charge pipe.
Driver's Side Engine
18. 4WD Only: Remove the vacuum lines mounted to the degas bottle, position them so that they do not interfere with cab removal, and remove the 2 small coolant hoses on the degas bottle (Select years may only have one small hose).Â
19. Remove the passenger side battery.
20. Remove the upper radiator hose, releasing the lock clips on the hose ends may be difficult, a long pick set may help ease this process. Be sure not to twist the hose ends while removing.Â
21. Remove the last, and largest coolant hose attached to the degas bottle. This will use a quick-connect locking clip like to upper radiator hose, and the same method will be needed for its removal.Â
22. Remove the 4 13mm bolts that hold the degas bottle in place, 2 will bolt through the battery tray into the inner-fender, and 2 will bolt straight down below the battery. Now remove the degas bottle/battery tray assembly.
23. Remove the 2 Hydroboost lines where the bolt into the hydroboost hard lines, on the right side of the master cylinder. It ideal that you order replacement teflon seals for these lines once removing them. Feed the lines under the steering shaft so that they're on the engine side of the steering shaft. This will prevent them from hooking onto the steering shaft during cab removal.
24.Remove the 2 Auxiliary cooler hoses for the VGT actuator, and Fuel cooler. These hoses are easy to identify off the cooler, as they'll both run together down to the drivers side of the radiator, and into the core support area.Â
25. Disconnect the 3 electrical plugs on the master cylinder (2 on the bottom, one on the side), and remove the 15mm nuts holding the master to the hydro boost. Remove the master cylinder from the hydroboost, and lay the master cylinder over the engine. It will stay down with the frame.Â
26.Disconnect the driver's side heater hose from the engine. This is a larger hose that mounts to a black pipe at the front drivers side of the engine. If you're having trouble locating it, follow the hose from the passenger side, across the back of the firewall, to its location on the engine.
27. Remove the 13mm bolt securing the steering shaft to the intermediate shaft, and slide that shafts apart. Also disconnect the 3 large electrical connectors mounted to a bracket below the master cylinder.Â
28. Remove the upper hose on the power steering reservior.Â
Front of truck
29. Remove the Power steering auxiliary cooler line, the line comes up between the drivers headlight and radiator, and is fixed by a hose clamp to a 90 degree metal line into the aux cooler. This soft line will have to be fed down under the truck, so that it doesn't interfere with the cab removal.Â
30. Disconnect the fog lamps (if applicable). The fog lamp connector is above the previously mentioned line, and to the right, behind the upper right corner of the headlight. This harness will have to be fed under the truck, just line the previous line.Â
31. Remove the 2 transmission cooler lines, they're located on the passenger side of the truck in the grill area. If you're having trouble finding them, you can follow the hardlines from the transmission filter to their softline locations. Feed them under the truck as well.Â
LAST NOTES:
As previously mentioned, due to the various year half-year changes, configuartations, and aftermarket equipment installed on a vehicle, it is likely this procedure is not 100% accurate to your specific truck. Use your own best judgement from the placement and removal of items from your truck, and always double check your work before lifting the cab. The best way we can describe our method for this is by "drawing an invisible line" around the engine and frame, making a decision of "with the cab, or with the frame" for each item, and placing that item properly so that it won't be damaged during the cab lifting process.Â
Follow these steps in reverse order for cab reinstallation!